
By Jonathan Harris, Ph.D.
The Greek presence in London can be first discerned as far back as
the early years of the fifteenth century. Two brothers, Andronikos
and Alexios Effomatos, described in the surviving documents as "Grekes",
were recorded as living in the city in about the year 1440. They
were from Constantinople, what is now Istanbul, but which then was
the capital city of the Greek-speaking Byzantine Empire. By 1440,
Constantinople was a city under siege and only thirteen years later,
in May 1453, it was captured by the armies of the Ottoman Turks. It
is therefore likely the Effomatos brothers had probably come to
London to seek a more secure life than could be offered by their
home city.
In 1445, the king of England, Henry VI (1421-1471), granted the
brothers permission to remain in London and to practise their trade
of gold wire drawing. They made a costly type of thread in which
thin strands of gold were intertwined with silk, and which was then
used in expensive luxury fabrics and in sacerdotal vestments, a
craft for which Constantinople had been famous in its heyday. Thanks
to this royal grant, the brothers remained in London for many years.
They lived first in the area of Cripplegate, much of which is now
covered by the Barbican Centre, and later they moved to Broad
Street, in what was then the Italian quarter of London. Andronikos,
the elder, died in about 1472, but Alexios was still there in 1484,
over forty years after his first arrival.
That set the pattern for Greek settlement over the next two hundred
years. Some came as visitors for a short period. In about 1545,
Nikandros Noukios of Corfu spent time in London and left an
interesting account of his impressions. Nikodemos Metaxas, a printer
by trade, worked in London for a time in the 1620s. Some came as
refugees, seeking asylum or financial help as a result of
misfortunes suffered under Ottoman rule. One of them was Gregorios
Argyropoulos, the owner of an estate near Thessaloniki. When a
Turkish soldier was accidentally killed on Argyropoulos' land, the
Ottoman authorities held him responsible and forced him to flee
overseas and eventually to London in 1633. A charitable collection
was made for him in London churches, and he was presented with £48
before he departed the following year. A few individuals settled
permanently, such as a native of Rhodes called Constantinos Benetos,
who was recorded as living in Clerkenwell between 1530 and 1578.
These visitors, refugees and occasional long- term residents did
not, as yet, constitute a community. They were too few, too obscure
and too transitory, and above all they lacked the one thing that
would have given them cohesion and a common identity: a church where
they could practise their Orthodox faith.
By the late seventeenth century, matters had changed somewhat. A
number of Greeks now occupied prominent positions in London life.
Constantinos Rodocanachi of Chios had become one of the physicians
to King Charles II (163 I -I 685) (PI. 1). Georgios Constantinos of
Skopelos had established the Grecian coffeehouse in Devereux court,
just off the Strand, and could count Sir Isaac Newton and other
members of the Royal Society among his clientele. Numbers had also
increased. The expansion of Britain's overseas trade with the Levant
brought many more merchant ships to the port of London, some of them
crewed by Greeks. The time was therefore ripe to press for the
establishment of a Greek Church.
The Rodocanachi family coat of arms
In
1674, therefore, a number of Greeks, led by a priest called Daniel
Voulgaris, petitioned the Privy Council for permission "to build a
church in any part of the city of London or the libertyes there of,
where they may freely exercise their religion according to the Greek
Church". Although the seventeenth century was a period of acute
religious intolerance, the petition was favourably received. Many
Protestant clergymen of the Church of England looked favourably on
the Orthodox, because they too were at odds with the Pope in Rome.
Accordingly, in January 1675 permission was granted and work began
in August 1677. The driving force behind the project was Joseph
Georgerinis, Archbishop of Samos, originally from the island of
Melos. Georgerinis selected a location on the edge of the city in
Soho, in what is now still known as Greek Street, and the small
church was completed by 1681.
The location of Greek firms in
1839
Sadly this first venture was not a success. Georgerinis, presumably
out of ignorance of the city, had chosen a site far removed from the
areas where the potential congregation actually dwelt, while a
number of scandals concerning the funds collected to finance the
project brought it into some disrepute. In 1682 the Greeks sold the
church, which was taken over by a congregation of French Huguenots.
The building survived until 1934, when it was finally pulled down.
The inscription, which commemorated its foundation in 1677,
survived, however, and can still be seen in the cathedral of St
Sophia. With the collapse of this venture, the Greeks of London
henceforth worshipped at the Russian Orthodox chapel, originally
established just off the Strand, and which later operated from sites
in Burlington Gardens, Great Portland Street, and finally in Welbeck
Street. During the first half of the eighteenth century, this chapel
was served by the Archimandrite Gennadios (d.1737) from Cyprus, and
by his nephew Vartholomaeos Kassanos (1697-1746).
A register was kept in Greek of the birth, marriages and deaths,
which occurred among the community. Yet this church too had its
problems. Most of the congregation, apart from merchants who came
briefly to trade, were poor sailors and artisans who had little
money to spare for the upkeep of the church. As a result, by 1753
most of the paint had peeled off the iconostasis and one of the
priests declared that he expected the building to fall down at any
moment.
During the early nineteenth century, however, matters were to change
radically, largely as a result of events inside the Ottoman Empire.
In 1821 the Greeks rose in revolt against their Turkish overlords.
The Ottoman government responded savagely, in the hope of
terrorizing the Greek population into submission. On Easter day
1821, the Patriarch of Constantinople and three Greek archbishops
were murdered, and the following year a Turkish force descended on
the island of Chios, which had joined the rebellion, and
indiscriminately massacred or enslaved three quarters of its
population. Faced with such acts of barbarity, many of the wealthy
Greek merchants of Constantinople and Chios fled abroad, and some of
them found their way to London (Pl. 2). Among the first to arrive
were members of the Chiot Rani family, who established the firm of
Ratti and Petrocochino at 25 Finsbury Circus in the early 1820s. In
1827 Alexandros Ionidis (1810- 1890) arrived from Constantinople and
set up the firm of Ionidis and Co. Other families arrived in the
years that followed, the Argenti, the Agelastos, the Schilizzi, the
Rodocanachi, the Mavrocordato and the Scaramanga, to name but a few,
and, to start with, most concentrated their business in Finsbury
Circus and the surrounding area. They flourished on the importation
of grain and oil seed from the Baltic and the export of finished
textiles and manufactured goods to the Levant.
Coloured lithograph, Finsbury Circus, 1830
The Greek community had thus been transformed from an insignificant
minority into an extremely wealthy and influential group. It had a
recognized leader in Pandias Ralli (1793-1865), who, in 1835, was
appointed as the first Greek Consul in London. Regular meetings of
the community elders were instituted to decide matters of common
concern. It was therefore only a matter of time before steps were
taken to establish a separate Greek Orthodox place of worship. In
1837. a chapel dedicated to Our Saviour was set up in one of the
houses of Finsbury Circus (Pl. 3), sharing the premises with Ionides
and Co., and an Archimandrite called Dionysios Xenakis was brought
over from Chios to officiate.
The chapel in Finsbury Square, however, was only a temporary
solution and in 1843 Pandias Ralli proposed that a purpose-built
church should be erected, funded by voluntary contributions from the
Greek community. Rani did not make the same mistake as Georgerinis
and chose a site at 82 London Wall, close to where many of the
leading Greeks lived in Finsbury Circus. Designs were submitted by
Athens architect Lysandros Kaftantzoglou (1812-1885) and the
construction was overseen by Thomas Ellis Owen (1804-1862) of
Portsmouth. When the church opened in January 1850, dedicated like
its predecessor to the Our Saviour, it excited a great deal of at
tention. This was partly because it was designed in Byzantine style,
which was almost unknown in London at that time, but also because
the £10,000 cost had been met entirely by a community of only a
little more than two hundred people. The only note of criticism came
from an anonymous correspopdent to The Times who claimed that the
Queen's name had been spelt incorrectly in the Greek dedicatory
inscription.
By 1870, however, the situation had changed again. The numbers of
Greeks in London were no longer to be reckoned in hundreds, but in
thousands. The wealthier families tended to move away from the old
base in the City to the West End, particularly to Paddington,
Bayswater and Notting Hill. Once again there was a need for a new
church, and so in 1872 a committee, consisting of Demetrios
Schilizzi (1839-1893), Stavros Dilberoglu (1818-1878) and Emmanuel
Mavrocordato (1830-1909), was established to oversee the project.
Work began in 1877, with the £50,000 cost being met by the Greek
community. Again a Byzantine design was chosen, that of John Oldrid
Scott (1841-1913). The new church of St Sophia, in Moscow Road,
Bayswater was consecrated on 5 February 1882 by Antonios, Archbishop
of Corfu.
In the years after the inauguration of St Sophia, many of the
wealthier members of the Greek community became increasingly
integrated into British society. An increasing number had been born
in Britain and educated at public schools, particularly Harrow and
Westminster. Some played a prominent role in public life. Pantelis
Thomas Ralli (1845-1928) was MP for Bridport from 1875 to 1880, and
Lucas Ralli (1846-1931), was created Baronet in 1912. Constantinos
Ionidis (1833-1900) bequeathed his substantial art collection to the
Victoria and Albert Museum, where most of the paintings, including
works by Rembrandt, Degas, Delacroix, are now on public display.
Emmanuel Rodocanachi (1855-1932) was a director of the Midland Bank.
Theodore Mavrocordato (1883-1941) won the men's doubles at Wimbledon
in 1921.
Yet in spite of this process of integration, the Greek community did
not become an exclusive clan, restricted to its wealthier,
anglicized members. A visitor to St Sophia's Easter Sunday service
in about 1900 noted that at least half the congregation looked as if
they were sailors, no doubt from vessels visiting the port of
London. Nor did the members of the community forget their roots in
Greece. The seaside villa of the Rodocanachi family at Worthing was
named "Chios", in memory of their place of origin. Nicholas Vouvalis
(1859-1918), having made his fortune in London, spent a great deal
of it in providing a school, a hospital and an enlarged port for his
native island of Kalymnos. Zorzis Michalinos (1868-1940), who
founded the first Greek shipping company in London, donated a large
house to the municipality of Chios, to be converted into a home for
elderly people. In this retention of identity there can be no doubt
that St Sophia, and the churches which preceded it, played a leading
role, fostering a sense of continuity with the cen- turies-old
Orthodox tradition.
From "Treasured Offerings: The Legacy of the
Greek Orthodox Cathedral of St Sophia London" exhibition catalogue
published for the exhibit that took place March 1-25, 2002 at the
Hellenic Centre, London.
Byzantine and Christian Museum, Athens 2002. All rights reserved.
ISBN 960-214-603-6
The catalogue, available in Greek and English, can be purchased from
the Bookshop of the Cathedral of Saint Sophia (Divine Wisdom).